I remember back in University, one of my teachers told me that her favorite part of Spain was the north. I was rather surprised: not Barcelona? Not the warm and exotic south? But the rainy and chilly north? Didn´t we already have enough of that in the Netherlands? Is there really a paradise to go surfing in Northern Spain?
But it stayed with me, and ever since I´ve been keen to explore that magical northern part of Spain. Add to that that it´s a surfers Paradise, I knew what to do this summer. As always, I don´t take holidays, but I did work part-time during the summer. And sure, my dream is also to own a really cool little van and road trip around, but, I will have to save a little bit more before I can make that dream come true.
So, instead, I went with my plan B: my little Renault Clio. A handyman with tools at the garage in Salobreña helped me take out the back seats, I managed to pack my inflatable air mattress, sleeping bag, wetsuits, surfboard (of course), tent, some cooking gear and a little foldable chair and table in the car. Enough to go surfing, sleep and work remotely all across Northern Spain I figured.
I ended up spending some nights on camp-sites with my tent, some nights I would inflate my air mattress and but that in the back of the car, and if I would lie down diagonally, I would just fit. Though the first couple of nights I had to get used to this new posture, I ended up really enjoying my little cave. Reading a book at night with the trunk open and little solar-light Christmas lights to give me some light in the evening, people often stopped (both to laugh at me, as well as to have a little chat) and more than once was I recognized later on in the waves as ´the girl that sleeps in her car´.
I was mostly using my mobile data, by turning on my mobile hotspot on my phone and using this on my computer as well, what I was really missing though, was a little solar panel that would generate enough electricity to charge my computer and cellphone every once in a while. This way, I would less dependent upon charging in coffee places and little restaurants. Something to remember for next year.
First stops: Cádiz and Portugal
I was going to make the first stop in Portugal, meeting my Madrileño friends, but then.. the unexpected happened: summer waves in Cádiz! So, I left some days early and started my road trip to the familiar Cádiz. From there on I made my way to Sagres, in southern Portugal, where I stayed for a week with my friends. Working in the morning, charging my stuff and surfing in the afternoon. Since there is 1-hour time difference between Portugal and Spain/Belgium (where my main client at that point was based), I started at a nice and early 7 am and would go until 12. So I still had the whoolleee day ahead of me!
After this week, I continued up north to the magical area of Galicia, ready to really get Surfing in Northern Spain! I realized right away: this is one piece of green Spain! Lush mountains and forests, little medieval villages and, I noticed a lot of similarity between Great Britain architecture and this part of Spain, it all felt very Celtic and definitely very mystical to me. Add to that the Gallego language (a combination of Portuguese and Spanish) and the great, great food, I started to understand what my university professor was talking about back then.
Using all technology to get the best spots
I had found a new approach to finding the nicest backcountry roads and the best spots to go surfing in Northern Spain: using the mobile application of Magic Seaweed, I would mark in Google Maps the surf beaches they recommend, and mark down which tide would make this break work best. I would then navigate there with Google Maps, with the option of ´avoid highways´. This way, I ended up driving through the smallest villages, in between sheep and forests and definitely a couple of turns that even with my tiny car would take me some back and forth.
Playa Razo
One of my favorites for surfing in Northern Spain! It´s a long and nice beach with different peaks. There is also a little (camper) van/Clio-van field on a little hill overlooking this beach. You´re allowed to camp there for free (some had been doing it for weeks) and you can use the shower on the beach. Just make sure that if you decide to shower here, use organic shampoo, as the water, of course, goes straight down to the ocean! There are also bathrooms, though they close them during the night.
Every morning a little car drives around the van-area selling freshly baked bread and sweets. Panadería on demand, what is not to love!! For dinner, there are some small places in town with sandwiches and other standard food. I went there each morning to do some work and charge my phone and laptop a bit.
The general vibe, both in the waves as in the camping area, was really relaxed. Every morning, as I pulled out my little table to work, my van-neighbors would provide me with coffee, and after playing in the waves, we would all wash our wetsuits in a communal tub J
Playa Pantín
The famous beach where each year the ´Pantín Classic´ is held. The setting is absolutely stunning, as it´s set in a little bay with rocks, small green hills and wooden houses on both sides.
Unfortunately, I was a bit unlucky here: the day I arrived there was hardly any waves, that same night it poured down rain and a huge storm came in, making the waves around 3 meters high but very windy and too messy to actually surf. There are lots of little (surf) beaches around here though, such as Valdoviño, Playa de Campelo and Doniños, so I just hopped around some of them, unable to surf any of them, but still enjoying the magical scenery and power of the waves.
Coffee place working in Santiago
I took a two-day break in Santiago de Compostela (yes, from the famous Camino de Santiago). Here I stayed at the Meiga Backpackers hostel, slept in a nice bed again, had a wonderful shower, did some laundry, charging of electronics and was able to make some hot food again 😉 I worked both in the hostel garden as in two really cute little coffee places O Xardin Dos Soños, a little ecological coffee shop and store, and La Flor, right in front of the other one. Though away from the waves for two days, this was a highly needed break. Of course, Santiago is a very cute little (student) town as well, though the students are gone in the summer, the Camino-go´ers have taken over. People are happy, emotional, excited and exhausted as they mark the last couple of miles towards their end goal. Some already on their ways for weeks (or months).
Right at the edge between Galicia and Asturias, there is the long, ever ongoing beach of Foz, this is just some kilometers before the famous Playa de las Catedrales, made up of amazing rock formations. However, you need to join a little boat tour to get to this beach, and in summer you need to book this in advance. Impossible for someone who is just going with the flow, so I will have to go back some other day.
I stayed at a camping here, so I could put up my tent and have a shower again. Definitely a totally Spanish camping, and it seemed as if the same people would come back here year after year, as they all seemed to know each other. In the evenings they would get together at the camping bar, which also had nice coffee and breakfast, and a place to charge my stuff and work in the mornings.
The advantage of the kilometers-long beach was that there were so many different peaks, that you would never share them with more than 3 people.
Asturias
Asturias started to feel a bit more touristy, a bit more crowded and a tiny, tiny little bit more of localism to me (compared to Galicia, where I mostly surfed with locals who were so incredibly nice and helpful to me). The beaches get smaller, as most of them are just little ´calas´ little bays, and you´d have to share the peak with a minimum of 15 others. However, the scenery is fantastically beautiful and just sitting on your board while waiting for your wave is a whole new pleasure as well.
Cudillero
A little town that reminded me of Italy, with colorful houses around a little fishers bay. Ok, it´s quite touristy in July and August, but wandering around the little streets that are paved with shells it´s (almost) possible to lose the crowds. It´s basically a must-do´er when you´re around here!
Salinas and Xago
One of the more famous beaches around Gijón, however, also known to be quite busy. I therefore opted to one beach further down the road: Xago. Here there was yet another parking lot where everyone seemed to be out camping. I had heard that very, very sometimes the police stops by and hands out fines to campers, but considering we were literally minimum 50 campervans, and my little car looked very innocent in between (maybe people wouldn´t even think there would actually be someone sleeping inside ;)) I decided to take the risk. And all went perfectly fine!
I loved the long beach here, again, there were minimum five peaks, and although when I was there, the waves were lacking some strength, I had a great time with the other surfers here.
Other famous beaches around are Rodiles, Lastres, San Antolin, San Martín and San Andrín. All beautiful, green, but small, and quite crowded (also with swimmers and sunbathers) in August. Since the waves weren´t too great these days, I decided to continue finding a quieter spot (if that would be possible).
Avilés
A very surprisingly cute little town. I went in here because I needed a place to charge my laptop and phone, and actually.. also my need for a very nice coffee. By coincidence, I walked past this nice looking coffee place, el Jardín de Yume, and when I entered, it turned out to be a beautiful little bakery with an amazing courtyard. If you are ever close, make sure to get your coffee and pastry dose here, and just stay for a couple of hours!
San Vicente de la Barquera
This town, at the border between Asturias and Cantabria, is very busy in summer and definitely a bit pricier. However, the beaches around are nice and long and of course, the views on the Picos de Europa (a high mountain range) makes, once again, for a beautiful backdrop. I stayed at a campsite at the Oyambre beach for my last couple of days, and though I thought it was rather expensive for what it was, I could just walk down to the waves from my tent and pick one of the many different breaks. I started to notice that this spot (and maybe Cantabria even more so) was more popular with foreigners as well. In a way logical, Galicia really is quite ´out there´ at the edge of Spain, whereas Cantabria is more central.
Santillana del Mar
What they call, the town of the ´three lies´, as it is neither holy (Santa), nor flat (Llanos) nor directly by the sea (Mar). It is a beautiful little town though, with amazing food! I met up with my friends from Granada around here, and we strolled the cobblestone streets and enjoyed some nice lunch (great Menu del Día, of course with the traditional pulpo (octopus) and red wine).
So, here some of my insiders tips and tricks to go surfing in Northern Spain. What are you waiting for?!
