Portugal is Europe´s (and perhaps even the world´s) surfing paradise: everyone knows the famous wave of Nazare, and places like Peniche, Ericeira and Arrifana and worldwide known. However, the spots north of Porto and on the border with Spanish Galicia are less known. And that while there are some great quality waves there as well! Though the water is fresh and the weather is less sunny, these peaks tend to be uncrowded, it´s easy to park your van right in front of the spot and you get to know the local surfers here (as opposed to the south of Portugal, which tends to be mostly foreigners). Time to share with you how to go surfing the empty peaks of Northern Portugal
In the north, as in the rest of Portugal, the highest quality swells are created from late Autumn and continue throughout Winter. Summer brings smaller swells but warmer water (but still wetsuit temperature). When you are just starting out with surfing, summer or early fall might be the best option for you!
Three years ago I wrote a blog on my first experiences with surf in the Algarve. Many, many, many hours later, at least I can say I have improved a bit 😉
Surfing the empty peaks of Afife/Praia de Ancora
These two beaches and surf spots are rather close to each other, as well as just a couple of kilometers into Portugal after crossing the border from Spain (Galicia, to be exact).
Firstly, the water is cold. Like, 15 degrees Celcius cold. Basically, you might want to consider booties, even in summer. But being able to park and sleep in your van right in front of the peak makes you all up for it. The waves here can get big and heavy, though there are always some spots where the local surf school teaches their Portuguese kids and other beginners how to handle the surfboard. I have never seen intense crowds here and the vibe is super chill! However, these beaches are very exposed to the wind, and the waves will easily be unmanageable when the wind picks up (which is why it´s a windsurf destination as well).
Surfing Praia de Moledo
We did not go to this spot ourselves but heard a lot about it for its good quality left-handers. However, since this is a river break, watch out for the hard rips that sometimes form. It´s generally very relaxed and has beautiful landscapes!
Surfing the peak of Esposende
This spot is a bit more protected and a good place to go when it´s too big everywhere else! It´s usually pretty empty so all the peaks are for you! There are also two schools and a surf shop, might you need something.
Surfing Agucadoura
A superlong stretched-out beach with many different peaks and hardly any crowds. However, as with some of the other spots mentioned above, it´s easily maxed out. So go on the ´soft´ days!
Surfing the apocalyptic setting of Perafita
Seeing the large industrial terrain right in front of the beach makes this a bit of an apocalypse kind of surf spot. However, the (mostly right-hander) waves are great and strong. Though we had a small crowd on a Saturday morning, I imagine this spot to be mostly empty during the week.
Surfing among internationals at Matosinhos
This might be the only peak where to expect (large) crowds. It´s also the only beach in the whole of Portugal that is accessible by metro. So: everyone from the city, Portuguese or foreign, surf star or beginner will make their way to Matosinhos. There are a bunch of surf schools that teach in both Portuguese or English.
Surfing the barrels at Espinho
We had an amazing session here, just the two of us! WHich we were surprised about since the ´casino right-hander´ is one of the most popular waves of northern Portugal: a barrel wave with different sections. Southwards, there are more waves near the fishermen’s zone. Since 2014 it’s been one of the stages of the World Pro Junior Series.
Extra: Praia da Barra, Aveiro
Though I tried to focus mostly on surf spots north of Porto, there was one that we loved as well: Praia da Barra, in Aveiro. This is a long beach with lots of space and a surf school. It´s protected by a jetty on the north side and thus less affected by wind. Also, this part of the beach is super close to a large lagoon, so one day, you could combine salt and sweet water. And lastly: Aveiro is also known as the Venice of Portugal, with its beautiful canals. Definitely worth a visit!
So, here I shared with you how to go surfing the empty peaks of Northern Portugal. I hope that with this information, you might decide to try something else than the same-as-always peaks!
