Last October, together with an amazing group in what I call ´the international mama´s of Cantabria´, we set off on a two-day hike through the breathtaking Picos de Europa, spending the night at the Refugio Vega de Urriellu—with our 1-year-old daughter snugly tucked into the baby carrier. It was raw, real, and beautiful. And yes, hard. But also, once again, showed me that I can still go hiking in the Picos de Europa with a baby.
If you’re wondering whether a multi-day hike in rugged mountain terrain with a toddler is possible: yes, it is. But it takes some planning, a flexible mindset, and a decent tolerance for both awe and chaos.
Here’s a bit about my experience and some tips if you’re dreaming of doing the same.
The Trail: Cabrales to the Heart of the Picos
We started our hike in Sotres, the highest village in Asturias, and made our way toward Refugio Vega de Urriellu (also known as Refugio del Naranjo de Bulnes), nestled at the base of the Picu Urriellu. In our refugio there were quite some people climbing up the Pico in the morning, but since that requieres a whole other level of skills and equipment, for me ´just´ the hike up was enough. The trail winds up through limestone cliffs, alpine meadows with cows and donkeys. Panoramic views, in our case even with amazing fall leaf sceneries, that stop you in your tracks.
With Inoa in the carrier, the 5-6 hour ascent took me a bit longer—but hey.. it´s basically my motto these days: Slow. Steady. Present. ah, and no expectations.
If you are wondering about the prices? The overnight stay at the refugio is 18,- (in 2025), breakfast is 7,- and both lunch and dinner are 18,- each.
For the route, check the website of Asturias here
Hiking with a Baby: What to Think About
If you want to go hiking in the Picos de Europa with a baby, there are some things which I found unmistakeable to take with you or to think of:
- Choose the Right Carrier
We used a structured backpack-style baby carrier with good support for both the little one and the wearer. I use the Deuter Kid Confort Plus which I bought second hand on the Spanish website Wallapop. Granted, it´s not the female version (which I think would be nice, since it will be adapted entirely to the female body), but it works very well either way. I did make some short hikes in the weeks before to make sure both Inoa and myself were already used to the carrier. - Plan for Weather Shifts
In the Picos, mountain weather is unpredictable. Layers are your best friend—for both you and the baby. We packed a rain cover, fleece, various sets of dry clothing, and a windproof baby jacket, hats and gloves.. At night, it gets cold, even in summer. The refugio, however, had some very nice down blankets and we were not cold at all! Also, take some extra pairs of socks and above all.. sunscreen! - Take Breaks—Lots of Them
Your pace will be slower. Plan for frequent stops to feed, change, and just let your baby wriggle around. We turned breaks into picnics, with wide views and some cows and donkeys spotting thrown in. - Hydrate and Fuel Up
If you’re breastfeeding, you’ll be especially hungry and thirsty on the trail. Bring more snacks than you think you’ll need. We packed dried fruits, nuts, sandwiches, and some “just-in-case” chocolate. If you are not breastfeeding anymore (like me), make sure you pack formula in different bags and snacks for your baby as well. We had our dinner and breakfast included in the refugio, but chances are its not entirely toddler/baby-proof, so plan for that. - Sleep Logistics at the Refugio
The Refugio Vega de Urriellu is rustic but warm and welcoming. You’ll sleep in shared bunk rooms, so bring earplugs—for yourself and the baby. We co-slept, which worked fine with our sleeping bags unzipped into a shared cocoon. I was a bit nervous about bringing a baby who still doesn´t sleep through the night into a shared dorm with 16 people. But it went super well!
What to Pack
- Baby carrier (with rain/sun cover)
- Baby clothes (warm layers, hat, mittens, socks)
- Diapers & wipes (and a garbage bag to keep the used ones, because no, there is no garbage up there so you take everything down again)
- Compact baby blanket
- Food & water (for both of you, including to make bottles of formula milk!)
- Your own sleeping bag or liner. (I only took a liner, since the refugio has blankets and I did not want to carry more than I had to)
- Headlamp
- Basic first aid kit (including baby-safe meds if needed)
- Hiking poles (lifesavers with extra weight on your back. I did not bring these, but one of my friends lent one to me and holy moly does it make a difference)
Mentally Preparing
The biggest piece of advice? Let go of expectations when it comes to hiking with a baby in the Picos de Europa. You might not make it all the way. Your baby might be different than usual (which was not the case for Inoa, she absolutely LOVED it). You might doubt yourself halfway up the trail and wonder what you are doing to yourself and your baby when it´s 0 degrees in the morning. I did.
However, the moment we stood at the foot of Picu Urriellu, I felt something shift. Not just pride, but a kind of peace. A reminder that motherhood doesn’t mean shrinking into comfort zones—it can mean expanding into new ones. And hey, what a nice story and photos this makes for ´when she´s a big girl´, right?
For more things to do with a baby in Northern Spain, check out my blog on the Leonese Fjords!
